After three months of volunteer teaching in Cambodia, I decided to make use of my $200USD Chinese (L) visa from 2016, and stop over in Shanghai. With flights from Phnom Penh to Atlanta starting at $2000USD, I needed to get creative about my way home. Thanks to my ex, I started collecting Delta miles through air travel but also with my Delta gold credit card. I spent about 50,000 miles and just under $400 for two separate flights to Shanghai and then to Atlanta. Considering I don’t have much any play money left, I highly doubted I was going to spend over $500 in Shanghai.
I wanted this post to be a bit more informative and logistics based to try to help other travellers going to Shanghai, but due a series of unfortunate events and the string of kind friends I found, I wasn’t able to keep track of it all. In short, this is going to be a very personal, diary-like post.
Stay: Sunday and Monday nights – stayed with a Couchsurfing host – negative experience.
Tuesday and Wednesday nights – stayed at the Phoenix Hostel – stellar experience. Total: $24USD, paid with Visa.
Notable Attractions: Yuyuan Garden, Shanghai Gallery of Modern Art
Notable Restaurants: Grandmother Restaurant, Beer Lady
Total: Honestly, IDK, sorry. I landed with $100USD and got 100RMB (~$14USD) from a friend to help me survive, and used my Visa a few times whenever that was possible. I know I “spent” way more than that because I am a lucky girl who bumped into freakishly kind people who helped me financially along the way. And no, I didn’t go on no shady dates! So swerve.
Day 1 – Sunday Night
Landed at Pudong PVG. I landed with $100USD and left the airport with about $30 because I had to buy a SIM card, a WiFi pod because the SIM slot of my iPhone is broken, pay a deposit to store my two large suitcases, and buy my train tickets.
I was unable to set up a WeChat account because 1. I had no China-approved email address 2. no phone number/SIM card that could receive text messages 3. needed a friend to verify me, and there are monthly limits to how many friends a user could approve.
Took the Maglev, transferred to the metro Line 10 to go out west to Longxi Rd. where my host’s apartment is. My host met me at the station and walked me to his place. He made us dinner, we chat over tea. We go into our separate rooms, and I had a panic attack/mental break down because travelling had been so stressful, and either I don’t get British humour, or my host a complete prick. His catchphrase was, “I just CAn’t be bothered.” Considering my experience with Brits, I think it’s the latter.
I was on the phone with friends for help and consoling. One friend in the US was going to send me money via Western Union. Fell asleep with many tears and puffy eyes.
Day 2 – Monday Day
I had puffy eyes all day long! My mind was awake but my eyes kept wanting to close. My host had gone off for his last day of work before his holiday and I went off to Jiangwan Stadium to meet a new friend from Couchsurfing. Ellyse taught me how to eat soup dumplings for lunch, we walked around to find an ATM that would let me access my money, and we walked through two big malls to get to an Apple store in an attempt to fix my iPhone.
Well the Apple guy was concerned that he wasn’t going to be able to get the phone working again should he take it apart to diagnose it (the phone was originally purchased secondhand in Cambodia). But they let me borrow one of their many phones to input my US SIM card (with an international phone plan) to call Delta. I was going to try to change my flight to go to America sooner than later.
Obviously that didn’t happen because I don’t have $1700 laying around, but I appreciate the stellar customer service that I always receive.
Later we snacked and parted ways. Ellyse had been terribly helpful and generous, and I cannot thank her enough for that and for giving me hope.
– Monday Night
I pick up dinner on my way back to my host’s house, and I make phone calls to sort things out with friends in an attempt to get funds into Shanghai. My host arrived later but wasn’t very kind or gracious about my problems. “You’re shit out of luck,” is the last thing an anxiety riddled person wants to hear. He interrupted my phone calls so I could entertain him and take care of his drunk pissed self for the night. [Side Note: I’m breezing through details because you can read it in my review posted on Couchsurfing.] When he finally passed out, I continued my phone calls, and cried myself to sleep because UGH. I’m just trying to get money to eat!
Day 3 – Tuesday Day
My host was going to be home for awhile but I wanted to get outta there ASAP. I wasn’t sure if the hostel was going to accommodate an early check in, but carrying 15 kgs on my back around the city would have been better than being with my dreaded host.
I got lucky, and they let me in my room early. I got settled and was going to take a nap, but Ellyse advised me to check out the banks for my Western Union transfer sooner than later because of the Chinese New Year holiday hours. I did, and came back to the hostel in hot, frustrated tears. “It’s only 1:30?!”
I had gone to at least six banks that were “Western Union agents” according to WU’s website, and every. single. one of them. turned me away because I didn’t have a bank account with them. Some of them heard my English and wasn’t very helpful after that.
Imagine walking for blocks, in the wet cold, and hearing, “No we don’t do that here but you can go to the Postal Bank.” “No we don’t do that here but you can go to the SPD Bank.” “No we don’t do that here but you can go to the Bank of China.” “No we don’t do that here but you can go to the SPD Bank.” But I was just there!
Jumping in front of a bus was very tempting at this time.
On my back to the hostel, I decided to try one last ATM on the corner. My nails were too long so I couldn’t pull my card out, and the machine ate my card. Luckily, the bank was still opened, but even after they checked my passport, they made me wait 30 min to get my card back.
FINALLY back in the comfort of my hostel with speedy WiFi, I tried again to set up a WeChat account to no avail. My friend Maud ended up sending a hostel employee money so she could give me the cash. I had just enough to get my suitcase out of the airport (because it’s cash only – ugh) and a little more for food.
I hopped onto Couchsurfing in an attempt to find someone to have dinner with (locals make the best tour guide), and took a much needed nap.
-Tuesday Night
There was lots of pressure to party from Couchsurfing, and I wasn’t having it. I had a vegetarian dinner with my new friend Vish. We talked a lot about travel and I learned quite a bit about Dubai, his current place of residence. Later on, we met Sam, but Vish wanted to call it a night. I ended up staying out til around 2AM. Sam and I walked loads and went to a bar called Beer Lady. He taught me much about teaching English in China, and has single-handedly convinced me to go back to China despite this wholly traumatising experience.
Day 4 – Wednesday Day & Night
I spent my entire day with Sam, walking in the rain with soaked and soggy feet, through parks, getting brekkie, trying to find this obscure museum, through many metro stations and subways, went to the Yuyuan Garden, had dinner at some Italian place, went to a super cool bar.
Although a breezy little summary, I had loads of fun, and Sam made my Shanghai trip a positive one. I’m so thankful I met him.
Day 5 – Thursday Day – Leaving Shanghai
Wowowow I was PSYCHED to get outta there. I left my hostel early in the morning, left my postcards and money with the hostel front desk, and I hope they send out my postcards because I literally left that in a stranger’s hand. I wanted to get to the airport pretty early because I needed to get my luggage from storage and to check my bags. I got there at 09:15, only 15 min after my intended time.
I got my bags from storage, went to check it, but there was an issue when they scanned it. They scanned my magnets that I use for teaching. WOW. Such a hAzArD.
Went through customs, had to step out of line and fill out an Exit Card, which is ~exactly~ like the Arrival Card but even more useless. It literally asked for info that was already presented in my passport. I don’t understand what the purpose is because *I’m LEAVING* who cares about a square piece of paper when you have scanned my passport, fingerprints and face?!
Went through security and my backpack is packed full so I had to take some time to repack that. I was walking towards the gate when a security person was obviously looking for someone and that someone was me because they were doing last calls for my 12:05 departure. He’s like “Let’s go!” and together we’re running to the gate because getting to the airport three hours early wasn’t enough for me. As I’m running with this Stranger Man, I can feel my period starting because OF COURSE Mother Nature loves to attack at the most. convenient. of times.
I go down the wrong bridge because, “I’m sorry, this is first class only.” so I finally go back up, and then back down Peasant Bridge, moved to store my bag far behind my seat (I prefer in front of me, so I can get it on my way out), and awkwardly pull out feminine products from my cabin bag In The Aisle for ALL to see. After a potty break, I finally get buckled in my seat, and proceed to go on my movie binge.
TORONTO LAYOVER
Everyone definitely treated me a little differently rudely/aggressively/coldly for being Asian and wearing a face mask because they were a lot nicer after I flashed my USA passport. This included tones, body language, and random interrogation for custom receipts/security checks. I knew because of this virus outbreak, racist behaviors were going to become more apparent/aggressive, so I was more observant than usual. And based on my observation, the few white people on the same plane from Shanghai were not as scrutinised, if at all, as the Asian passengers. One more time: SAME. PLANE. Same baggage carousel.
Obviously, I’m still Asian-looking, but on the mere basis of a passport, do my privileges get extended to me.
My pet peeve of the Toronto airport is that if you check a bag, you must get your bag, and recheck it, regardless of airline or destination. The excludes very few and specific flights.
I was scanned for temperature check leaving China, going through Canada, and upon arrival in Atlanta. It’s been nearly two weeks and I’m healthier than ever thanks to momma’s cooking!
If you made it this far, I cannot thank you enough for reading.
Warmest hugs to you! Cheers for a stellar new decade!
xx,
Your Little Wanderess
Atlanta, GA, USA
xx Your Little Wanderess 